Costuming Info
Cholis
Coin Bras
Putting It Together
Skirts
Streetwear
Veils
Bloomers
Belts

Coin Bras

Coin bras are not as easy to place in traditional garb as some other costume pieces. Certainly the life giving feminine power of the breasts is emphasized in lots of traditional costume. From the embroidery on the caftans bodice to the circular mirror work on Rajastini Indian cholis. And then of course there is Xena.

Street wear
Well, maybe in San Francisco. Actually this is a prime costuming piece for fantasy dress-up,and is very popular in the Society of Creative Anachronism crowd.

Washing
Coin bras cannot be washed or dry cleaned, so to keep them fresh try these two sanitizing techniques from less mechanized times and cultures: airing and smoking. To air your garment, literally hang it inside out in the fresh air and sunshine- yes sunshine actually kills bacteria and freshens garments. ( be sure not to over-do, sunshine can also fade and weaken fibers). To Smoke your garment, first form a smoke enclosure from your bathroom or porch (make sure it is a room you can air out later). Hang the garment inside out, set at least 4 sticks of incense to burning- and leave the space enclosed till all the incense has burned (at least an hour or more). experiment with different scents and herbs. The smoke has a anti bacterial effect. It will help keep your coin bra sweet smelling even after much sweaty dancing.

Sizing:
Bras are notoriously hard to fit. Cup size, frame size, and bust measurements all come into play. I have by-passed most of the confusion by making the back and top ties adjustable and by making the space at the center front adjustable as well. So just order your regular cup size, or order one cup size up and pad it as described below. The only exception to this rule is for gals with a very small frame and D cup size, about 30-34D. My adjustable C cup is equivalent to this bra size.
If you will be wearing a choli with your coin bra fit is not as much of an issue as your choli will be holding you up and in. Be aware that your own taste comes into fitting a costume bra as well; one dancers pleasingly abundant decolletage is anothers - oh my goodness Im falling out of this thing!

Here is how to measure for cup size:
1) Start by wearing a supportive bra. Measure around your body by placing a tape measure on your back above your bra line Then bring it to the front above the fullest part of your bust.
2) Measure the fullest part of the bust. The tape should go from the back bra line to the front. It should be parallel to the ground and measured loosely.
3) Simply deduct the smaller measurement from the larger measurement. This is your cup size. 1"= A cup, 2" = B cup, 3" = C cup, 4" = D cup

Finishing Tips:
The space between the bra cups can be adjusted by carefully removing the hand stitching holding the center rosette together and re-stitching it to suit your figure. The A and B cup size have two sets of straps that can be tied as a halter or crisscrossed racer style (left back to right shoulder ect. right back to left shoulder) The C and D cups have 3 sets of straps, and can be worn halter style with the two sets of back straps twisted as one or tied separately for firmer support. For maximum support and comfort in the C and D- cup, tie the ties to make a racer back: Crisscross the straps (left back to right shoulder etc. right back to left shoulder), then third strap straight across the back.
If you want to cut down on the bulk in back ( and for speed in getting in and out of costume), measure and cut the straps to fit your figure and sew on sturdy hook and eyes for closure ( I recommend the self locking style often sold for trousers). Some dancers use velcro for the same purpose, but be sure you use enough to ensure a a secure hold.

If you want more substantial lining or padding- you can buy a cheap black bra- with padded or foam cups. Simply cut around the cups to fit the inside of your coin bra and stitch them in place!

Kurtas and Tunics
The Kurtas and Tunics are often worn under coin bras. They are meant to be not just loose but oversized- the Ghawaze sleeves should fall long and free and the Kurta sleeves should be rolled up to taste. A closer fit comes from layering with belts, vests, and bras.
The measurements below are the actual garment dimensions not body measurements. A modern close fitting garment allows 2- 4 inches of ease ( difference between body measurement and garment measurement). A modern loose garment allows 6 to 8 inches of ease. A Traditional oversized garment allows much more ease; 10- 20 inches or more, so it looks and performs like a tribal or village costume. You may order a smaller size with less ease if you wish a more mordern fit. ( my bust measures 44 inches and I like wearing the size S/M as a close fitting shirt with jeans)

THE SIZE S/M measures:
23" shoulder to shoulder
the sleeves measure 21 inches long.
48 inches around the bust
31 inches long

The size L/ XL measures:
25 inches shoulder to shoulder
the sleeves measure 23" long
56 inches around the bust
37" long